<p>105 days. Medium-large sized, beautiful red, globe-shaped onions are only moderately pungent. Usually tops down by mid-September. <br>Onions are actually easier to grow from seeds than sets - they don't bolt as quickly. Direct seed these in mid-April to early May.</p><p>CULTURE: The onion’s shallow root system is naturally adapted to moist, sandy loam or peat soils, and in heavier soils often makes inadequate development. Since our garden is clay loam, it requires varieties having a broad adaptation to most soil types. Fertilizer placement close to the plant is vital, since roots often don’t extend more than 15-20cm (6-8 in.). A high moisture level in the top 20-30cm (8-12 in.) of soil is also vital. Onions are photo-periodic plants, meaning that they regulate their stages of growth by measuring the duration of light and dark; so an onion will make top growth until the critical light duration is reached; then it bulbs. The size of the bulb is directly a result of the size of the tops when bulbing begins, so the successful onion grower helps the plant attain maximum size by sowing as early as possible in spring, providing maximum light, water and nutrients, and adding compost to heavier soil types. To start indoors, put 40 seeds in a 10-15 cm (4-6 in.) pot, cover lightly and keep moist. When seedlings are 7-10 cm (3-4 in.) tall, gently separate them and set each in the garden 10-12 cm (4-5 in.) apart and 2-5cm (1-2 in.) deep. The little grass- like seedlings will do fine in cool weather. Band 1/4-1/2 cup complete organic fertilizer below each 2.5m (5 ft.) of furrow. To start outdoors, sow 1cm (1/2 in.) deep, 2 seeds/cm (1/2 in.), rows 30-40cm (12-16 in.) apart in late April to early May for storage onions. Thin bulb onions to 5-8cm (2-3 in.) apart in the row. Thin scallions 1cm (1/2 in.) apart. <br>DISEASE: Most onion disease results from improper growing conditions. Plant them with lots of compost in your best humus soil and practice strict sanitation and rotation procedures. Raised beds give the good drainage they need. <br>INSECTS: The pungent odour of onions repels many pests and also protects other garden vegetables. Onions are a valuable companion and can be integrated throughout the garden. <br>HARVEST: When the tops begin to dry out and fall over, withhold watering if possible so the bulbs mature in dry soil. After about half the tops have fallen, push over the remainder, wait about one week and harvest the bulbs. Spread them out in the sun and cover with a tarp at night to prevent dew from remoistening them, and cure for a week or so to toughen the skins. Proper curing is essential to promote long storage. If weather is poor at this time, cure on the floor of the garage or house. <br>PRESERVE: Keep onions in onion sacks so they get good ventilation, and hang sacks where air is dry and cool 12-18 deg. C (55-65 deg. F). Check sacks regularly and instantly remove any sprouting or rotting onion. <br>SEEDSPEC: Minimum germination standard: 75%. Days to emergence: 6-12. Optimum soil temperature range for germination: 10-25 deg. C (50-75 deg. F). Days to maturity: from date of direct seeding. One gram contains approximately 200-400 seeds. Usual seed life: 1 year.</p><p>Onions and shallots are closely related to leeks, chives, garlic and Chinese chives. All these belong to the genus Allium and have the characteristic onion smell, caused by alkyl sulphides. The onion is a cultivated plant of great antiquity and is not known as a wild plant. It was cultviated by the Egyptians around 3200 BC but must have been domesticated earlier, and is thought to have been derived from a wild species found in the mountains of Central Asia. Onions were commonly grown in the Middle Ages throughout Europe, and modern varieties have been developed from these old ones.</p>
