<p>With firm fruit and a high sugar content, Ambercup is one of the best winter squashes we have seen. The flesh is rich and sweet, deep orange and moist, even after baking. Superior buttercup-type quality and flavour. The bright orange, 1.3kg (3 lb.) fruit come on a full vine.</p><p>CULTURE: Rapid seedling growth is especially important when growing winter squash (they are similar to melons in this respect, because to develop full-flavoured fruit it is necessary to get fruit set as early as possible. Winter squash usually needs 110 to 120 good, sunny growing days, over 24C (75F), to set and fully mature a load of fruit. Gardeners in cool summer areas should try to grow C. pepo varieties, which are the fastest to mature. In the garden, sow the seeds 4-5cm (2 in) deep over a spot where a cup of complete organic fertilizer or a shovelfull of composted manure has been worked into damp soil and do not water again until seedlings emerge. Hopefully the surface will dry out, allowing the seedlings to emerge in a dry, fairly non-humid medium. Cool, cloudy weather can prevent germination by lowering soil temperatures. Indoors, you can sprout single squash seeds in 7cm (3 in) pots, keeping the soil on the dry side and sealing them in a plastic bag to prevent moisture loss or the need to water until the seeds come up. Transplant very carefully, trying not to disturb the roots. Space seed clumps or transplants as follows: 1.2m x 60cm (4 x 2 ft) for summer squash, 90cm x 8m (3 x 6 ft) for small vining types, 90cm x 3m (3 x 10 ft) for large vining types. Thin when well established to the best two plants per clump. Don’t pull the excess plant out, cut it off at soil surface. They may develop a root system as extensive as their vines if the soil permits, so avoid soil compaction around them. Squashes are monoecious (that is, having separate male and female flowers on the same plant), and therefore require bee activity for successful pollination and good fruit set. Poor pollination results in blossom drop and misshapen fruit, often dying with the blossom still attached. Squashes are capable of enduring dry soil but only make vigorous growth if well watered. <br>DISEASE: Fusarium wilt and bacterial wilt are carried by cucumber beetles, so beetle control is important if the disease has been present. Strict sanitation in the garden, good insect control, a sound rotation practice, and (very important) the use of disease resistant varieties when available. Squash share with or follow cole crops in the rotation. <br>INSECTS: Cucumber beetles and squash bugs feed on the leaves and fruit. If plants get off to a good start, few pests will bother them. Squash is best protected when young with floating row covers if these pests are present. <br>HARVEST: For better winter squashes, after September 1st pinch off all the little squashes and all new female flowers (they are the ones with tiny squash just before the flower). This forces the vine to finish ripening the larger fruit already set, and gives larger size with better flavour. Fruit is ripe when the stem gets dry and brittle. Cut the stem about 4cm (2in) from the fruit when the vine begins to dry. Field-cure for 10 days in the sun, covering them at night if frost threatens, or cure indoors in a warm room for 4 or 5 days after frost or end-of-summer rains destroy the vines. Sponging the skins with a disinfecting solution of 10 parts water to 1 part chlorine bleach helps prevent mould from forming later in the winter. Store at 7-15C (45-60F) and low humidity with good air circulation.</p><p>So called because they develop a firm skin which protects the squash for storage and winter eating. Curcurbita maxima types are slower growing and need heat. The flesh is orange, dry and sweet.</p>
